DEV BHOOMI - Day 7

10th. July 2010

Had a good nights sleep. The room was nice and warm, even though it was quite cold outside. Maybe it was because of the wooden panelling on the walls and the wooden flooring. All in all feeling good and refreshed. The time is around 5.30 am. Did I mention it anywhere before, Daybreak in the mountains is pretty early! Arshad and Dinesh are up too. We order our teas, wash up and get ready to leave.

Today is the day we are definitely crossing Rohtang! We decide to have breakfast and leave, rather than having it somewhere on the road. More prudent to continue driving on a full stomach. Luckily, my stomach ailment has not reccured. So Homoeopathy works, well atleast for me it does! Order bread and omelettes and wolf them down, and wash it down with tea. Ready to move. Pack the luggage into the car. Pay the hotel bills, Ask the Manager about the road conditions at Rohtang, and hear those magic words: "RAASTA KHULA HAIN SAHAB" Rohtang, here we come!

Finally leave the hotel at 8.00 am. (I know it's late!), pass all the places we passed yesterday; Raahla Falls, Gulaba, Bridge over River, Marhi. We halt for a bit at Marhi, just to take a look at the road above and we see a long line of cars stuck. Oh oh, what the...., but suddenly we see the line moving and we heave a sigh of relief. The road condition is pretty bad. Not that it matters to us, atleast there is a road that can be driven on! We keep a steady pace, overtake a few trucks and reach nearly the same place we were yesterday and its around 9.20 am.

Horror of horrors, there is a huge line of cars, trucks, minivans, etc, in front of us. This is not supposed to be happening! Rohtang road is open, didn't the Hotel manager say that to us, just about an hour back???? Maybe its a minor jam, caused by a minor landslide or maybe a vehicle breakdown. Happens in these parts! Nothing to worry about.

We double park and get down to enquire as to the cause of the jam. After walking for around half a km., we see something that really takes all the air out of our system.

A landslide and a major one at that. Truck nearly pushed out of the road. Army officials, actually preventing people from venturing further. Not looking good at all. A T.V. crew actually filming the whole thing. Speak to a few people at the place, including the driver of the truck in the picture. This landslide occurred at 10.00 pm. last night. Most of the trucks and some cars in the jam, have been here since last night. Some of the minivans and cars have arrived early this morning. And the people lower down, still don't know a thing about the landslide. That is a total lack of communication for you!

So here we were, our second day, up near Rohtang Pass, stuck in a traffic jam, due to a landslide, with no idea as to when we would be able to finally cross the Pass! So what does one do in a situation like this? I for one, decide to call HVK (H V Kumar) and inform him about the situation. He can't believe what he is hearing! He has never heard of the Rohtang Pass or rather the road to Rohtang facing such type of landslides and that to for such a prolonged period of time. Nature reacting to the excesses of mankind! Maybe its true, we have really @#^%wed up!

Time to explore around. Could not do it yesterday due to our physical condition. (Still debating if it indeed was A.M.S.) Arshad decides to stay back near the car. Dinesh and me go back to the area near the landslide. Its 12.30 pm. The BRO/GREF are working on clearing the road. Got to hand it to those guys, I've seen them working for the last two days, and I must say, the amount of effort and dedication they put into their work is just amazing. It is for lesser mortals like us, to sit and wonder, at what pushes them to do so much! I SALUTE YOU and my heartfelt gratitude to all the people working in those inhospitable conditions!

Its around 1.00 pm. and the truck has finally been safely towed away to the other side of the landslide. Now begins the tough part of breaking up the huge boulder, to clear the road. Sounds easier than it looks. Holes have to be drilled, dynamite inserted and a controlled blast done, to break the boulder into smaller pieces, so that it can cleared away by a bulldozer. Normal circumstances this would have been an easy job. But these are not normal circumstances. As the drilling is in progress, the vibrations are causing more landslides. There are around 5 people keeping a watch for boulders falling, while two people carry on with the drilling. The weather is not helping in anyway. There is a continuous drizzle, and the clouds keep on covering the area, making it difficult to have a clear view, in any direction. Finally they manage to complete the drilling and insert the dynamite. All of us are asked to move back from the area, so that there are no casualties. Minutes later we hear a blast. Yeah the boulder is history. Now the road will be cleared and we will be on our way to Leh finally! Its 2.00 pm. Quick calculations, we can actually reach Darcha or atleast Jispa, before nightfall.

Head back to the car to give Arshad the good news. He has found a gap between a car and truck and managed to squeeze the Bolero in! Atleast we are not double parked anymore. Have some Chole pao and some roasted Corn on the cob, from the vendors. Well atleast somebody is benefitting from this situation!

Its around 3.00 pm. Get a message from HVK :- "Keylong?" . I don't have the heart to send a message back. Instead I call him and tell him our status "We are still at the same place Sir" He thinks I'm joking, but after hearing the seriousness in my voice, he realises that the situation is bad, very bad. He tries to cheer me up, saying "These things happen, don't worry the road will be cleared" Well I take his advice and stop worrying and think of some other things to do.

Arshad and me head out towards the landslide area, to have a look see. I am also on the lookout for the elusive Chaiwallah! (Arshad swears that he heard, someone say Chai Garam Chai). We reach the area, only to discover that there has been another major landslide. During the period the last boulder was cleared and the new landslide occurred, just two or three cars and a couple of motorbikes, managed to cross over to the other side. They also allowed a few people on foot (mostly locals, heading to Gramphoo , Keylong) to cross over. Maybe the vibrations caused by the vehicles moving across, caused this landslide!

The BRO/GREF are at it again. The boulder blocking the road now, is the size of a TATA SUMO. So drilling, blasting and clearing, is the only option. The three of us meet near the car again. Its nearly 5.00 pm. There is ample food, water, warm clothing and sleeping bags in the car. We decide that if need be and the road is not cleared, we will spend the night in the car at this place itself. Having made that decision, we feel a lot better, as if a load has been lifted off our shoulders. I call up HVK again, and inform him of our decision. He asks us to double check on the food, water and especially the warm clothing.

At around 6.00 pm. a few officers of the BRO/GREF approach all the cars and minivans parked and request them to head back to Manali. They say that the situation has not improved much and passing on to the other side will probably not be possible today or tonight. The three of us insist that we will spend the night here in the car itself, rather than go back to Manali. With a shrug of his shoulders, one of the officers tells us to move our car a little to the left, so that the cars in front of us can turn back and head towards Manali. I get into the car and move it to the left and park it adjacent to a truck and behind a Himachal Transport Corporation Bus. There is just about enough space on the right hand side for a Minivan to pass.

A lot of cars behind us in the line have already turned back and are headed towards Manali. A few cars ahead of us also have decided to turn back. The net result is that, from no. 50 in line we are approximately now at no. 20 in line. That is an achievement. We are all set to wait it out.

Its almost 7.20 pm., we decide to head out again and see what is happening. Its already getting pretty cold. We catch up with a senior GREF officer and strike up a conversation with him. He is most forthcoming and more than willing to give us clear picture of the situation. He says that the situation is very very grim. In all his years of working in this area, he has not seen the mountain behaving so erratically. He cannot give us any guarantees for the next day. The BRO/GREF workers are going to stop work in a few minutes now and will return only tomorrow morning. (They have been at it since 8.00 am. in the morning). A stretch of nearly 800 meters of the mountain has become very unstable and there is no way one can predict if the landslides will stop. According to him, in all probability the road may not even open tomorrow!

All our brouhaha of the last one hour or so comes crashing down, on hearing such negative thoughts from the officer. We ask him for his honest opinion and advice, regarding staying back and the road opening the next day. He says "Sir please head back, there is no point in suffering in the cold here. The road will not open tomorrow, and even if it does, it may be evening again and no guarantees and the chances are very very slim."

Its getting very cold and the chill is beginning to seep into our clothing. All three of us are pretty dejected by the turn of events. This was supposed to be the starting point of our journey towards Leh. Looks like it is turning out to be starting point for our return journey. 2 full days in Manali twiddling our thumbs and now two full days somewhere near Rohtang pass, again just watching cars in a traffic jam! Not the best of ways to spend your time, especially when you are supposed to be driving.

A decision to head back to Kothi is made with a very heavy heart. On the way down, we call up Hotel Sagu Valley, speak to the manager and ask him to keep a room for us for the night. The time is nearing 8.00 pm. He asks us to reach the hotel before 10.00 pm. as the kitchen closes down then. Well dinner is the last thing on our minds! We follow the long line of cars and other vehicles, that are heading back towards Manali.

Reach the hotel at around 9.30 pm. The manager gives us the keys to the same room that we vacated this morning. Just dump our bags and head back to the restaurant to grab a bite to eat. Things have not panned out as we expected! Some major decisions need to be made and soon. The food arrives and we sort of listlessly finish eating. Back again to the discussions: Bombay or Kinnaur, Spiti Valley or Dalhousie, Dehradun?

Arshad is the most dejected amongst the three of us. His first time in the Himalayas and his trip is being cut short! Dinesh has visited most of the places, so he is a bit better off, but upset nonetheless. As for me, I can't describe my feelings. The Ladakh road trip had been in the planning for more than a year now. I had devoted a lot of time and effort to make this trip happen. And here I was faced with the decision and the reality of the journey to Ladakh not being possible. What does one do in a situation like this? Dinesh tries convincing us about trying out the drive to Kinnaur and Spiti valleys. Arshad and me are not very convinced. Arshad suggests, that since we cannot got to Ladakh this year, we should completely abandon any plans for any other destinations. We could save on the time we will be spending on the drive, head back to Bombay and get back to work!

I call up HVK again, get an idea of the road from Manali to Spiti valley and onwards. He gives me the detailed route and I mark it onto the maps we have. At the same time, he cautions me about the probability of the roads being in a bad condition in those areas too! That does it for me, I am being pushed towards Arshad's way of thinking. Heading back to Bombay seems the best option, given our present condition.

The situation as it was, that night:

4 days wasted in Manali and Rohtang.

Going to Ladakh via Kunzum La would entail a 3 day drive to reach Keylong (2 days if we really pushed hard)

Since we had already lost 4 days, Zanskar valley would be out. (to make up for the 4 days lost)

But we would be spending 3 days reaching Keylong and not the 2 days it would take to reach Leh from Manali.

Going back to Bombay via Srinagar did not look like a possibility, given the situation there.

If we managed to reach Leh and completed the Nubra Valley, PangongTso and TsoMoriri drives, we would still have to return via Manali.

If Rohtang was still closed on the return, it would mean coming back via KunzumLa, Kaza, etc., so another 3 days gone to reach either Chandigarh or Ambala or Delhi.

The days and the time were just not adding up. Arshad had to be back in Bombay, latest by the 23rd. or 24 th. Dinesh had to be in Lucknow by the 25th. (probably could push it by a day or two). I was the most flexible, but anything beyond the 27th. would be a problem for me too!

Its almost 11.45 pm. The waiting, has taken a toll on the three of us. We are tired, mentally more than physically. We decide that, heading back to Bombay is the best option. I call up home and inform them of the decision we have taken. Arshad and Dinesh also call their respective homes and inform them and on that sad note, we go to bed.

To be continued.........................

DEV BHOOMI - Day 6

9th July 2010

Had a very bad night’s sleep. Major stomach ache, all through the night. Could hardly sleep through the night. Maybe it was the anticipation of crossing Rohtang today, that was playing havoc with my system! Was awake much before 4.00 am. Washed up (bath was out of the question, no hot water) and got ready. Arshad and Dinesh are up and ready by 4.15 am. Asked Dinesh about the stomach ache, he suggested some medication. Thought it prudent, to stick to my Homoeopathic medicine, rather than take something, I was not comfortable with. Tea arrived at 4.25 am. Finished tea and all set to leave the hotel.

Packed all our luggage into the car and moved out of the hotel at around 4.45 am. Headed towards the Rohtang road. Stopped at the Rashpian Filling Station on the way. Not a soul in sight. What the heck? Dinesh decides to pry into the office and sure enough the attendant is all curled up and sleeping. He is woken up and finally decides to come out and fill diesel into the Bolero. We pay up and finally are on our way. Its almost 5.00 am.

Pass Palchan, Kothi, Gulaba villages. Gulaba is named after, Raja Gulab Singh, who camped here on his way to invade China! (Wonder what happened to him?). We stop somewhere in between to take some snaps of the sunlight hitting the mountains.

Cross Marhi at around 6.30 am. The restaurants/ stalls are just about opening shop. We decide not to stop and keep moving. A few meters ahead, a passerby informs us that, there is a road blockage up ahead and traffic is stuck! He advises us to wait at Marhi itself and not proceed further. Having already spent two days in Manali, we decide that it would not be wise to wait in Marhi, but rather proceed ahead and wait in line for the traffic to move. I even forget about my customary tea break and continue driving.

So on we go, along the twisting and turning roads, some of them, barely qualifying as roads. The condition of some bad patches of the road is mainly due to the incessant rains that have been lashing the region this season. At many parts, we see boulders, that have run down the mountain side, or maybe boulders that have been cleared by bulldozers from the road above. Progress along these roads is a little slow. It is better to be cautious and slow, rather than rash and fast, and find yourself being hurled out of the mountainside.

Finally at around 7.05 am., we fall in line behind, what appears to be the main line of vehicles. Trying to find a gap somewhere in the front of the line of vehicles, we proceed a little further and sort of double park. Step out of the car, make enquiries and are told, that there was a landslide a little ahead late last night. Most of the cars and trucks stuck at this point, have been here since last night, or very early this morning. We are around 3 to 4 kms. from Rohtang Pass.

At around 7.30 am. we see some of the BRO/ GREF workers arriving, to try to clear the roads. We catch hold of a BRO man in uniform and ask him about the situation. He tells us that the bulldozer is on its way up, to clear the landslide. He also tells us to move our car (which is double parked) out of the way, or the bulldozer will do it for us! That does it for me. Rush inside, start the car, reverse and find a gap in between two trucks.

The bulldozer finally arrives at around 8.45 am., trundling past us. As it passes us, a GREF officer (looked like a Major), gets into the driving seat and proceeds to drive it down further towards the landslide. The mood turns a little cheerful, compared to the sombre mood, we were in some time back. Arshad and me step out of the car and decide to explore. I take a few snaps of the snowcapped mountains opposite, where we are stuck.

Little did I know, that these were to be the last snaps we would take today! Arshad has strolled off somewhere, while I was taking the snaps. My stomach ache is sort of under control, thanks to the medicine (Homoeopathic). I loiter around for a while. Down below, I can see the snaking road into Marhi, full of parked cars. Maybe all of them are having their teas/ breakfast, etc., before the assault on Rohtang Pass!

I hang around for a bit and then head towards the cars to catch a nap. See that Dinesh is already taking his 40 winks. I get into the back seat, make myself comfortable and close my eyes. I really don't know how long I slept, but the next I know, is that Dinesh is shaking me awake and insisting, that I have something to eat. I can barely open my eyes, I'm feeling that drowsy! He thrusts a cheese sandwich into my hand and I eat it. I see that Arshad has also joined us and is having some sandwiches himself. I glance at my watch and see that it is almost 10.30 am. I have gone without teas for almost 6 hours. Must be a record of some sort! Maybe the drowsiness is due to the lack of tea. I finish my sandwich, have a gulp of water and the only thing I can think of, is shutting my eyes!

Close my eyes and out like a light! The next time I open them, I see Arshad has also joined Dinesh and me in our siesta. Somehow manage to shake myself awake and step out of the car. Splash a little water on my face and decide to take a stroll along the road. There are many guys, selling Chole pao. Hoping against hope, to find someone selling CHAI! No such luck. Salvation is to be reached around 5 to 6 kms., down the road or maybe a kilometer as the crow flies at Marhi! I resist the urge, take a peek at my watch, its almost 12.30 pm. Enquire around and am told that the road may be cleared soon. Unfortunately there's also a truck stuck somewhere up ahead. But the news of the road being cleared soon, sort of cheers me up a bit.

Call H.V. Kumar in Mumbai and inform him about the road conditions. Its been 9 hours, since we left Manali and almost 7 hours, since we arrived at this place. Doesn't that qualify as the longest traffic jam, that many of us have been stuck in? It surely does for me! All I can say, we are mere puppets in comparison to Nature and its might. Whatever we may do, we are no match, if Nature decides to play spoilsport. Experiencing it first hand!

After about 15 to 20 mins of strolling about, I feel the drowsy feeling returning! Is it A.M.S. ? I don't even know the altitude we are at. All I know is that Rohtang is at 13,045 ft above MSL and that the climb from Manali has been quite a bit. Back to the medicine chest I have got with me. Dr. Deepak Kulkarni a consulting homoeopath, and my next door neighbour in Bombay, has been kind enough to give me medicine for various possible ailments, that may be encountered. The earlier medicine for the stomach ache, was from the same cache of medicine! I refer to the list and take a dose of the right medicine.

Arshad and Dinesh are still sleeping. Hearing me pottering around, Arshad wakes up. Dinesh merely opens his eyes and asks as to what is happening. I inform him about the situation. I ask Arshad how, he is feeling, he says ok, but a little drowsy. Dinesh says that he is fine, but I would beg to differ. I'm sure he also is feeling drowsy, cos he shuts his eyes the moment any conversation ceases!

Its almost 3.30 pm. and finally some good news. The road will be cleared soon. Yeah finally we can move on. This bit of news peps us all up! We start doing the calculations. If we can manage to clear Rohtang pass by around 4.30 pm. then we will have probably have around till 7.00 pm., before it gets dark. That would roughly mean around 50 kms. covered at an average of around 20 kms/hr. That would probably get us to Keylong, if we pushed a little harder. The only problem with that; we would have to cover the Keylong to Leh stretch the next day. That would be stretching it a bit!

The traffic has finally started moving. Unfortunately they are letting the traffic blocked on the other side of the landslide, heading towards Manali pass by first. Lots of cars passing us by, all in the opposite direction. Again a conference to decide our future plan of action! We stop a Senior Police official passing by and ask him about the time it will take to get the traffic on our side moving. He says that it may be around 6.00 pm., before they will allow movement on our side.

That does it for us. If we cross Rohtang at 6.00pm., we reach Keylong, maybe by 9.00 pm. That is a little dicey, considering the conditions of the road and the darkness that surely would have descended by then. A decision is made to head back to Manali for the night and come back early tomorrow morning, so we atleast reach Jispa, if not Darcha during the daylight hours.

Its 4.30 pm. Take a quick turn and we join the long line of cars heading towards Manali. Reach Marhi, which is full of cars parked, wherever you look. Manage to spot Padma Tashi. He has been waiting here since around 11.30 am. The cops and BRO/GREF had actually stopped people from proceeding beyond Marhi towards Rohtang, since around 11.00 am. Padma insists that he will wait for the road to open and then head out, whatever the time of the day or night. He has to be in Leh by the day after tomorrow. We exchange our byes and move on towards Manali.

Back via the same road, only descending this time, instead of ascending! I've got a throbbing headache. After Marhi and just before Raahla Falls, is a small bridge over the river. There are some stalls here. I desperately need tea, so we decide to stop. Park the car, and head towards the stall. Suddenly I get a very quesy feeling in my stomach, classic signs of me wanting to throw up. I try to control the urge, but without any luck. After that, the headache sort of lessens. I wash up in the river and splash the cool water onto my face. Feel much better after that.

At the stall, we order for tea and Maggi noodles to go with it. Remember none of us has eaten anything much for the whole day. Gobble up the noodles and wash it down with tea. Spend around 40 mins. here and are ready to move on.

We cross Gulaba and reach Kothi at around 6.30 pm. Just at the end of Kothi village, on the left is a hotel: Hotel Sagu Valley, which appears to look good from the outside. They appear to have rooms on the 1st floor. We decide to check the place out, since it makes better sense to stay the night here and leave from here rather than go all the way to Manali. We have a look at the rooms and are pleasantly surprised to see, that they are quite nice. Infact the bed is big enough to accomodate 3 adults. Over and above that, is the promise of hot water availability. We are staying here for the night, no 2 ways about it! We haggle a bit over the price of the room, get a decent discount and move in with our luggage.

I go for a bath first and come out feeling completely refreshed. Maybe we can attack Rohtang Pass now! (Just kidding). Dinesh takes out his laptop and does some photo transfers, while Arshad has gone for a bath. Its almost 8.15 pm., and everyone is ready to hit the restaurant for some dinner. We order dinner and while it is being prepared, we stroll out on to the road. Stop a few cars passing by, and ask about Rohtang Pass. Most of the cars have come over from the other side of the landslide. Get to know that the road towards Keylong is also operational now. Yipee! So we are definitely going to cross Rohtang tomorrow.

Get back to the restaurant, just in time to see our food being served. Have a hearty meal, made all the more delicious, with the prospect of finally reaching Leh the day after tomorrow! After dinner, head out on to the road, once again, just to stop a few more cars and double check on the status of the road. ALL IZZ WELL, we are informed. Traffic is moving both ways.

On that cheery note, we return to our rooms and hit the bed. The actual journey starts tomorrow, wouldn't you say! Lie down on the bed and out like a light, the moment the head touches the pillow.

To be continued................

DEV BHOOMI - Day 5

8th July 2010

Another morning in Manali. We were not supposed to be staying in Manali for 2 nights on the way to Ladakh. And here we were spending 3 nights and 2 whole days. Nature sure has a strange way of turning your best laid plans to dust!

Wake up and get ready, albeit at a very relaxed pace. Have breakfast at the dining room. Dinesh is heavily into Lemon Tea, Arshad likes his tea strong and I prefer very light tea and hence the many cups that I am wont to consume in a day.

Leave the hotel at around 10.45 am. and proceed towards Vashisth Temple and Hot Springs. Its around a 3 km. drive to the parking lot before the temple.

The last 750 mts is an uphill walk. You will find lots of shops and salesmen, selling everything from Saffron, Shilajit, Shawls, etc. The loudest are the ones, who insist on showing you Chingoo! More on that later. The whole stretch is interspersed with budget hotel, restaurants, tea stalls, tour operators, shops, internet cafe, bakeries and even a bike service centre.

The Hot springs are inside the temple premises. Cameras are not allowed inside. Separate enclosures for Men and Women. Go inside to find people taking a bath, with soap and all. Thankfully arrangements have been made, so that the main water is not polluted. The water is piping hot. Wash feet and hands, visit the temple. Come out and take a few pictures of the temple entrance and the surrounding mountains.

Walking back to the parking lot and we are again accosted by salesmen, selling us CHINGOO! Curiosity gets the better of us and we troop into a shop. So what is CHINGOO? Chingoo is a blanket made of the hair of an animal called Chingoo! It would have been nice, if the guy had just said that and shut up! But he didn't, and we were subjected to a 15 min speech on the virtues of the chingoo, the way it is manufactured, etc. We ask him the price, and lo and behold, he tells us that it can't be bought! It is given on hire for a period of roughly three to five years. After that you have to return it in whatever condition it is in. For this you pay Rs. 5,500/= only. Now the best part, you get 5 free gifts along with this! All of which are things like bed sheet sets, pillow covers and the like. "If you want to take it right now, you can pay by credit card or cash. Otherwise you can order it, give your address and it will be delivered to your doorstep via V.P.P." The choice is entirely yours! (If I had purchased this, or rather hired the chingoo, I would have been surely barred from coming home). We troop out of the shop. On the way back to the car park, we are accosted by many more shopkeepers, who are ready to offer from 2 to 10 free gifts. We have a hearty laugh and move on.

We come back to the hotel at around 12.30 pm., park the car and decide to have lunch at the Mall. We decide on Chinese at Mount View restaurant. Decent food. Finish and decide to have Ice cream as dessert at one of the shops on the Mall. Head back and reach the hotel at around 2.oo pm. Relax for an hour or so and decide to leave again, to visit Naggar Castle and the Roerich Museum.

On the way to Naggar Castle, we stop by at the National Institute of Mountaineering Sports (NIMS), now known as Atal Bihar Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Adventure Sports (ABVIMAS) whew, what a mouthful. Good location, but looked pretty forlorn. Visited the museum housed in the premises, just about ok.

Leave after around 15 mins and are on our way to Naggar. Stop by in between to buy some Apples and Naaspati (type of pear) being sold on the sides of the road. The apples though small are delicious. For us Bombayites the price we got them at, was a steal!

Reach Naggar Castle at around 4.15 pm. Beautiful wooden and stone structure. Part of it has been turned into a Luxury Resort by HPTDC. The views from the top floors of the castle are fabulous. Stop to take few pictures. There is also the Jagtipatt temple in the castle premises. Unfortunately it was locked and we could not enter.

Leave the castle and step outside to the German Bakery for some tea and snacks. Arshad checks under the table for unclaimed baggage! LOL. We order a slice of Lemon cake, a peanut cookie, Yak cheese sandwich and Lemon teas for Arshad and Dinesh and plain tea for me. I demolish most of the lemon cake, and take a bite of the sandwich. Not much to my liking. Leave after about fifteen mins., and head towards the Roerich Museum.

The Roerich museum is a nice bungalow, overlooking the town of Naggar. It is now a museum, housing some of the paintings painted by Svyatoslav Nikolaevich Roerich, who was married to Devika Rani considered the First Lady of the Indian Silver screen and the grand niece of Rabindranath Tagore. Most of the painting depict the mountains. Unfortunately could not photograph them, due to the reflection of the glass.

Its almost 6.00 pm. and the museum is about to close. We head out and proceed back towards Manali. On the way stop to take a few snaps of Apples growing on trees. (First time for city dwellers like us, though Dinesh would beg to differ). Also spot a red Scorpio sporting the Live To Drive sticker. Is it a Team BHPian in the mountains?

Reach the hotel at around 7.00 pm. Lots of discussion regarding tomorrow's Rohtang crossing. Road is open, from what we gathered after speaking to cab drivers. Decide to buy bread, butter and cheese, just in case we get stuck on the road, or for emergencies. Fill all the water bottles. Total of around 18 litres. Diesel cans are full. Will fill diesel in the Bolero on the way to Rohtang, at Rashpian Filling Station. (24 hrs. open) in the morning. Time of departure has been fixed at 4.30 am. Pay up all the hotel bills and request the manager to serve us tea at 4.15 am., which he agrees to.

Have dinner at around 8.45 pm. Vinayak and his tour group are leaving for Chandigarh tonight, by Tempo Traveller, for their onward journey to Bombay. We bid farewell to Vinayak and assure him of keeping in touch. Touch base with Rameshbhai and Padma Tashi. Padma is leaving for Leh tomorrow at around 10.00 am. He promises to meet us either at Darcha or Jispa, where we will be spending the night. Say our goodbyes and good nights and retire to our rooms.

Its going to be hard days drive tomorrow and we need to start early. On that note we hit the bed.

To be continued.............................