DEV BHOOMI - Day 4

7th July 2010

Woke up late, really late at around 8.00 am. Dinesh as usual was all ready and raring to go. He was cleaning his camera and lenses. The point was that we really had no place to go to. Rohtang crossing was out of the question, so it would probably mean hanging around Manali and places around Manali. Got ready and proceeded for a leisurely breakfast of piping hot Aloo Parathas at the Hotel dining room.

Met up with Vinayak and Rajeshbhai to find out the latest position on Rohtang Pass. Situation looked pretty grim. Possibility of the road being cleared by the afternoon, but then again, just a possibility! The weather is still quite cloudy and chances of rain are pretty high.

Finish our breakfast, and decide to leave in the car for a trip around Manali. First destination - Hidimba temple. Lovely old temple, built entirely of wood and stones. Lots of huge Deodhar trees surround the temple premises. Full of tourists and mainly honeymooning couples. Its drizzling a bit. The umbrellas are out. Spend some time here and decide to move on.

Big dilemma, where should we head next? Decide to head towards the Rohtang pass road. The last time I was in Manali, was in 1978(Yes I am ancient), so I remember very little, and whatever I do is because of the pics at home! Though one thing I remember very clearly, is that the HPTDC Tourist Lodge was housed in a large compound, on the banks of the river Beas. It was among the few hotels in Manali at that point of time. As of now, the HPTDC Beas stand next to the Tourist Lodge and there is a road, right in front of the two hotels. I am pretty sure that wasn't the case in 1978. I remember very clearly climbing three floors to reach our room from the ground. Now, your entry into the hotel is from the 3rd. floor itself. How times have changed Manali!

Across the one way bridge over the River Beas and we are on the road leading to Rohtang Pass. We stop to take few pics of the mountains in the distance. Arshad's first time seeing the ice capped mountains! Dinesh behaves like an old hand, having been here many times before. Me, I'm too excited for words. Go crazy with the camera, shooting everything in my field of vision.

Head off again after some time. The whole road is dotted with shops renting out Ski Gear, Warm clothing and Rubber Gumboots. No names, just numbers, starting at 0 and reaching 4 figures! Business is slack though, what with Rohtang being closed! Stop for a cup of tea at a small restaurant. The backside of the restaurant is on the banks of the Beas. What a view! Head out and reach the Solang exit. This is where the new tunnel is going to start from. After completion, there will hopefully be, all weather connectivity with the rest of Himachal. Spend a few moments there , take a U turn and head back towards Manali.

Its almost 4.00 pm when we reach town. Park the car at the Hotel. Decide to walk down to The Mall area. Arshad decides to rest for some time and heads back to the hotel. Dinesh and me decide to stroll along the Mall. I suddenly realise that I need a good pair of shoes for the onward journey. The present ones are not preventing water from entering, and that is something, I'm not too comfortable with. So off we go to scout for some nice hiking boots. Into one small lane and an even smaller shop. But the variety he has, just amazes me. Try on a few and settle for a First Outdoor ankle length hiking shoe. Am told its waterproof. Credit cards not accepted. So off looking for an A.T.M. For all its advertising, Axis bank, doesn't have an A.T.M in Manali! The funds in the BOB account are still not cleared. Will have to wait another day to withdraw from that account. (My advice to fellow travellers:- If travelling within India, get yourself a S.B.I. Account and A.T.M. card. There is a S.B.I. ATM everywhere and I mean really everywhere!)

On the way back to the hotel, look up at the sky and for the first time in many days, see the sun shining. There is a huge smile plastered on Dinesh's and my face. We are the only two Idiots in the middle of the Mall looking up at the sky and the mountains with this stupid grin on our faces. If this weather holds, we will surely be crossing Rohtang tomorrow. The rest of the public, could hardly be bothered. They were way too busy, buying stuff, walking around, eating GolGappas, et al!

Return back to the Hotel, to give Arshad the good news bout the weather. Head to the terrace of the Hotel to capture some images of the mountains. Some truly scenic views all around.

Photo-op session over and we head for a cup of tea in the Dining room. Meet Vinayak and Rajeshbhai again. Some cars were allowed to pass today, but very few. The landslides are still continuing. We take the advice of Rajeshbhai, who suggests that we should stay one more day in Manali and allow the area to stabilise and the BRO (Border Roads Organization) to do a thorough clearing of the road. Sounds like a good and practical suggestion. So crossing Rohtang is out for another day.

All three of us decide to go back to the Mall, me to buy the shoes, Arshad to loiter around and Dinesh to guide us! LOL. Reach the shoe shop, wear the shoes, ask for a discount before buying, no luck with that. Get to chatting with the shop owner and ask him about the durability of the shoe. He insists that it will last for a really long time. Dinesh comments: Is it "CHALA TOH CHAND TAK, YA PHIR SHAAM TAK!" This has the shopkeeper in splits. We have made his day. He says that he will not forget this phrase and use it whenever necessary! Since we have given him something to remember us by, we ask for more of a discount, he insists on serving us tea!

Return to the Hotel for dinner. The dinner is a feast of Trout stuffed with a chutney.(Sort of like the Paatra Ni Machhi). Its delicious! We are joined at the dinner table by Padma Tashi a tour organizer from Leh. He has just come into Manali from Leh by car, driving down a group of tourists. The situation at the Rohtang pass is very grim. He also suggests that we should wait for one more day and allow the mountain to stabilise. So its decided, we spend one more day and two more nights in Manali :-(

Head back to our room. I make my first call to Mr. H.V. Kumar, the guiding light of many road travellers in India. I explain the situation to him and he totally agrees, that we should have a little patience and try for the day after tomorrow. No point in taking unnecessary chances he says. I am a little relieved, that he agrees with our plan of action. With this big load off our minds, we retire for the night. Tomorrow can be another lazing around day!

To be continued..............................